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Tutorial - Sound Deadening a Vehicle


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#61 bigjohn

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Posted 25 July 2006 - 04:39 PM

I followed this guide last weekend and the result is good for what i spent ($40) - The midbass gain up front is very noticeable. Thanks :)

Im happy to help anyone out who wants to do pulsar doors (N14) .


For $40, what did you use?

#62 MEA

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Posted 06 August 2006 - 09:48 PM

SoundOff Sound Deadening is also now available in the CAA Online Store for those having difficulty locating sound deadening products near them.

#63 Riley

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Posted 07 September 2006 - 04:24 PM

used flashtac to do the passenger door today....1 question

there is a service hole pretty much behind the woofer when its on the door

without thinking i used MDF and sealed that hole....should i leave that open and deaden the very outer skin instead? i cant quite tell from the pics in the tech article

at the moment i havent made a hole in my door trim as the pods keep the magnet clear of it....im pretty sure i need to make a whole as they're probably in a very small enclosure....

cheers

Riley

#64 RoVer™

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Posted 07 September 2006 - 10:17 PM

Seal it up.

:)

#65 markd

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Posted 10 September 2006 - 12:25 PM

[quote name='Riley' date='Sep 7 2006, 06:24 AM' post='710700']
"should i leave that open"

Yes, if you want to use the inside of the door as an enclosure (which you would if you wanted mid bass).

"...deaden the very outer skin instead"

Depends on your goal (as stated above). I think placing deadening and cushioning (absorbing/diffusing) material behind the woofer is a good idea.

Nice info guys :)

#66 Guest_Liquidity_*

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Posted 10 September 2006 - 06:25 PM

you should always leave an opening behind the woofer (or as near as possible) to vent into the door cavity. As you've correctly deduced, they arent made/dont like small spaces (generally).

if you think diffusing materials are a good idea, simply put in on both the near surface (Around the "vent" hole) and on the outer surface.

#67 deathcock

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Posted 09 October 2006 - 02:53 PM

With the duct tape, would i put the first layer sticky side out, so the MDF sticks to the tape?

Cheers

#68 master_luke

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Posted 09 October 2006 - 11:53 PM

With the duct tape, would i put the first layer sticky side out, so the MDF sticks to the tape?

Cheers


i didnt.... its too hard to get the tape to stick to the door skin other wise...

Duck tape over service hole -> Mdf -> Duct tape.... Dont be afraid to use extra duct tape, to keep it on and reasonably airtight...

#69 RoVer™

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Posted 10 October 2006 - 09:53 PM

Seal it up.

:)


Woops. :D

#70 Muffin Man

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Posted 21 October 2006 - 12:09 AM

ive completed the process but now i just have one question to ask, the foam people are talking about between the inner skin and the door trim wat form thickness/stuff should i use? im guessing clark rubber would be the best to get it from but would say 5mm be enough, or depends on how much is between the sd and where teh door trim sits?? (its going in a vr commodore)

any previous recommnedations would be good

cheers

#71 Guest_Liquidity_*

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Posted 21 October 2006 - 12:43 AM

trial and error there muffin man. Its dirt cheap though, like $5 per square meter, so you could easily walk in and spend $15, get a few different sizes. dig?

#72 Marc

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Posted 23 October 2006 - 04:45 PM

The last remaining Sound Off products have been added to the store and discounted to clear them out if anyone is interested.

http://www.caraudioa...d...Cat&catId=5

#73 20Hurtz

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Posted 23 October 2006 - 05:35 PM

what going to replace them ;)?

#74 Marc

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Posted 24 October 2006 - 07:53 AM

CAA Sound Deadening :)

#75 Captn_Awesome

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Posted 24 October 2006 - 11:43 AM

Got specs availible for us to see on the CAA deadening Marc?
is it badge engineering or is it a specially formulated product?

#76 tabletennisman

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Posted 24 October 2006 - 03:42 PM

here is my first attempt at sound deadning
i used
Septone wax and grease remover
Septone Body Deadner (4L)
Jaycar bitchumen bases sound deadner

here are some pics
Posted Image
Posted Image


I've got some questions.

Where did you use the Jaycar bitumen bases sound deadener?
Is that just alfoil you've stuck over the sd?
Is it really necessary to use the grease remover?
Will it be alright if i only use the Septone Body Deadener on the doors and bootlid?

Thanks very much!

Edited by tabletennisman, 24 October 2006 - 04:54 PM.


#77 Kippa-Dee

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Posted 27 October 2006 - 05:24 PM

While it's not totally necessary, it is reccomended. If you have particularily large areas of grease, it's 100% necessary.

Honestly, it's $5 or $6 for a spraycan, are you that willing to throw away ~$150 of SD coz you were too lazy to give your door a quick spray and wipe?

The stuff is great, gets grease off. I had a few spots I had to press REALLY hard on, sprayed this stuff, and it just wiped right off.

And I doubt that's al-foil, maybe thats the way the Jaycar Bitumen Based SD looks?

#78 Brycestro

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Posted 28 October 2006 - 12:08 AM

not alfoil. it's a thin layer of aluminium, you'll find it on most if not all sound deadening mats. It's part of the design which i don't recall the technicalities of right now :P

#79 Kippa-Dee

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Posted 29 October 2006 - 05:16 PM

I know Dynamat has it... but it's odd to see SD without logos al over it... and I've never seen the Jaycar stuff before... I can understand why you'd think it's al-foil

#80 tabletennisman

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Posted 29 October 2006 - 06:06 PM

well i ended up getting a 4L tin of Septone Body Deadener and piled it on my doors (about 5mm thick), however i can't notice a different in sound. Could this be because i have cheap speakers? All service holes were covered with 3mm MDF as well.

Cheers.

#81 Kippa-Dee

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Posted 02 November 2006 - 07:56 AM

Likely, very likely.
I noticed a different, even in my stock paper cones, and thats just doing the outer skin. If you knock on it, does it sound better?

But remember, alot of members avoid Septone Body Deadener... it's great for small hard to cover areas, under the body, etc.; but for sure dampening power you're gonna want a proper bitumen based SD

#82 tabletennisman

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Posted 02 November 2006 - 09:43 AM

Likely, very likely.
I noticed a different, even in my stock paper cones, and thats just doing the outer skin. If you knock on it, does it sound better?

But remember, alot of members avoid Septone Body Deadener... it's great for small hard to cover areas, under the body, etc.; but for sure dampening power you're gonna want a proper bitumen based SD


I did the outer and inner skin as well as in the inside of the door trim and it doesn't sound different when you hit /knock on it or anything. I've put about 4 coats on so it's about 4mm thick on each bit! However, now that i've let it to dry properly, you can tell slightly but the difference was definitely not worth doing.

#83 mooingchicken

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Posted 02 November 2006 - 11:57 AM

that paint on deadening is more for wheel wells and such not really for the doors. if u want deadener for the doors buy the sheets

#84 Civic Boy

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Posted 06 December 2006 - 02:05 PM

Hi,

I'm new here..

Has anyone used Second Skin products ( http://www.secondski.../index.cgi?p=hm )?

They're meant to be 'over engineered' products, they sound pretty good and after the xchange rate, look like pretty good value (even after shipping).

They don't have a distributer in Oz, but the guy has sold to a few people here.

Would it be worth the trouble of ordering in the Second Skin Damplifier Pro or going with Dynamat?

Any thoughts?

#85 Poisoner

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Posted 06 December 2006 - 04:34 PM

use deadening sheets the spray on stuff helps but isnt the best. going from 4-6cm thick of spray on deadener to half a bulk pack(dynamat extreme) in the 2 fronts doors made a world of difference.

But remember, alot of members avoid Septone Body Deadener... it's great for small hard to cover areas, under the body, etc.; but for sure dampening power you're gonna want a proper bitumen based SD


or butyl based like the dynamat

#86 zion187reigneth

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Posted 06 December 2006 - 07:15 PM

All deadner is just a mass of cr.ap
The most ideal situation is to have something integrally strong right next to the vibrating panel so it can absorb the energy of the moving panel and dissipate it without letting the energy pass to another part of the panel.If the integrity of the deadner can do this , then it doesnt matter what its made of or how its applied to the panel.
Pre made deadner , paint on deadner all have some qualities.

The deadner intergities could be considered to have different values of absorbtion and dispertion rates.
I was bored.............zion

#87 Brycestro

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Posted 06 December 2006 - 10:50 PM

use deadening sheets the spray on stuff helps but isnt the best. going from 4-6cm thick of spray on deadener to half a bulk pack(dynamat extreme) in the 2 fronts doors made a world of difference.
or butyl based like the dynamat


please let the 4-6cm be a typo, or that's some damn serious quantities of spray on deadener

#88 zion187reigneth

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Posted 08 December 2006 - 08:05 AM

If you could be bothered or it was a full resto job , your doors could be have all the trims and window taken out, then use masking tape and and paper to seal it up a bit in places.Then spraying 10-100 thin coats of spray on deadner.You would have to have a modified peice of flexible hose ,apropriate spray tip comming from the spray gun. I reakon you could add some qiuck dry liqiud compound to the liqiud deadner to strenghten the finnish and make it dry quicker.This way all sides of the internel door panels could be deadened with however thick you desired them to be..........zion

#89 Poisoner

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Posted 08 December 2006 - 02:02 PM

4-6mm please thankyou! but it was probably about 8mm in places.

#90 Guest_Liquidity_*

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Posted 08 December 2006 - 04:40 PM

your completely wrong zion. Butyl loaded deadeners can weigh half as much as asphalt based deadeners, but do a much much better job and last longer....as one example.

I wish you'd do more research before you counted your word as gospel.